For Gucci’s Cruise 2020 show at Rome’s Capitoline Museums, Michele treated us to yet another exploration of fashion’s relationship with history. Drawing inspiration from classical antiquity and the Neoclassical philosopher Johann Joachim Winckelmann, Michele gave us togas over suits, Roman army uniforms … and Mickey Mouse. 

The Gucci 1955 Horsebit bag joined this eclectic mix on the runway with its own exciting history. Michele uncovered the original design in the house’s archives and – like any Neoclassicist would – imitated the vintage artefact with absolute reverence.

And he has already found one notable fan, with actress Sienna Miller spotted carrying the 1955 Horsebit handbag – in the beige and ebony GG Supreme canvas material with brown leather trim – in Rome in late July.

Michele retained the original details of the 1950s handbag, most significantly the equestrian-inspired “code” that reminds us of Gucci’s long-standing association with the sport. The double ring and bar appear on both the flap closure and in half-form on the side panels.

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The same shoulder-style silhouette is also retained in the modern interpretation. It aligns with Michele’s philosophy du jour, whereby one maintains strict adherence to the technique, craft and simplicity of form.

The 1955 Horsebit is available in the GG Supreme canvas, with cuir or red trim, or plain leather in basic colours for something more understated. A special blue version was also created for this line, with a blue-red-blue web stripe on the flap that one can also find on some versions of the Gucci Sylvie bag or the Rajah tote.

For something even more luxurious, the 1955 Horsebit is also available in ostrich, crocodile and elaphe (snake).

The “modern” element to the Cruise 2020 handbag is perhaps the sophisticated internal mechanism that allows the wearer to adjust the strap length for over-the-shoulder or cross-body wear.

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In addition to the original shape, Michele also unveiled two other styles of the 1955 Horsebit on the runway. The soft leather bucket bag differs from your typical bucket bag with a constructed circular base and supple soft leather nearer to the drawstring. The Soft Messenger was also revealed, an all-new shape that is available in four colours of leather, or Original GG canvas with contrasting leather trim.

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