See yourself in The White Lotus? Travel to idyllic Taormina, Sicily loved by Elizabeth Taylor, Audre

On a resort’s private beach in Taormina, Sicily, a guest goes for one last dip in the glittering Ionian Sea at the end of her holiday. Behind her on the sand sit a pair of fellow visitors she’d been enthusing to, assuring them that they’re bound to have an amazing trip on the Italian island. During her relaxing swim though she makes a shocking discovery.

So begin the events of season two of The White Lotus, the hit HBO black comedy set in the idyllic resort town on the island’s east coast, charting the intrigue, infidelity and other indiscretions committed by the ultra-wealthy – played by Jennifer Coolidge, returning from season one, along with Aubrey Plaza, Haley Lu Richardson and others – that holiday there. In reality, you’re likely to experience no more drama than trying to scoop up your last bite of granita before your accompanying brioche gets cold.

But the hilltop destination boasts a rich history of inspiring creatives of all stripes, from writers to film directors. Before The White Lotus – whose finale gripped over four million viewers last December – parts of The Godfather were filmed there. D.H. Lawrence is believed to have got the idea for Lady Chatterley’s Lover while living there between 1920 and 1923. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe waxed poetic about its Teatro Antico, or Greek Theatre, and Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda project debuted there in 2012. (Domenico Dolce himself is Sicilian.)

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And then there’s the romantic and oft-repeated story about German painter Otto Geleng, who visited in 1863 and created a sweeping panorama of Taormina featuring the sea, olive tree-dotted slopes and the Greek Theatre, with Mount Etna looming in the distance. When he showed his work to his colleagues in Paris, they believed he’d simply imagined the views that he’d depicted. He urged them to visit, even betting them that if the reality of Taormina differed at all from his work, he’d pay for their travel expenses. History records he won the bet.

Centuries later, those same tableaux have been splashed far and wide across influencers’ Instagram feeds, prompting travel envy in all who scroll through them. In the same spot where Geleng created his masterpieces stands the Grand Hotel Timeo, A Belmond Hotel, Taormina only a decade or so younger than the paintings and celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. What was originally a humble, family-run bed and breakfast has grown into a grand, five-star property, part of the LVMH-owned Belmond’s portfolio, and frequented in the past by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren. The sweeping, intricate gowns of 19th century aristocrats have given way to influencer Jenny Walton’s Rodarte dress with a yellow flower print to match the surroundings, and Alexis Foreman’s on-trend monochrome look. They join the rest of the TikTok-friendly glitterati who gather in numbers on the hotel terrace to toast the century-and-a-half with glasses of Veuve.

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Stepping out of the hotel and taking a stroll down the Via Teatro Greco the next day is somewhat less glamorous, with the effortlessly chic locals – suited in tailored shirts and blazers despite the summer sun – vying for space on their winding, narrow streets with tourists from all corners of the globe kitted out in jeans, trainers, bucket hats and bumbags.

Shoppers browse kitschy souvenir stores squeezed beside luxury boutiques from the likes of Fendi, Dior and Patek Philippe. Here the must-have emblem is the testa di Moro, a pair of heads symbolic of Sicily that appear on magnets, ceramic knick knacks and a hundred other decorative tchotchkes. They tell yet another bloody, salacious story that contrasts with the breezy, Mediterranean surroundings: a local girl falls in love with an Arab prince and, when she finds out he plans to abandon her to return to his wife and family across the sea, kills him in a fit of rage and turns his head into a vase.

Teenagers spill out of a score of gelato stalls licking cones, becoming unwitting witnesses to a wedding as guests crowd the entrance of the 17th century Church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria. Passing by again later that afternoon, another couple poses in the same spot for engagement photos.

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Taormina has always been a tourist spot, but its popularity has soared this year. Peak season typically runs from June to August, but 2023 has seen visitors flocking to the area from as early as March. By the weekend of my visit in late May, the Grand Hotel Timeo is already booked up through the rest of the summer. The White Lotus is the reason of course, drawing more American travellers especially, eager to explore the show’s filming locations in an era of pop culture-driven holidays that have seen the rise of Game of Thrones tours and James Bond film experiences.

But there’s more to the town than entertainment trivia and historical architecture. As you might expect from an Italian destination, there are plenty of local delicacies to devour. Family-owned Pietradolce winery produces tipples whose terroir includes the lava flows of Mount Etna, no less. (The volcano erupted as recently as May 14 – Geleng himself would have wanted that selfie!) Take an ape calessino – think an Italian tuk-tuk, inspired by old fruit delivery carts – up the hill to Castelmola village and you can sample the area’s first almond wine, created at Antico Caffè San Giorgio. Diners lap up granita at cosy alfresco tables in front of the colourfully painted Bam Bar, while at seaside Mazzarò – recommended by Dolce himself in an interview with Condé Nast Traveler – beachgoers bite into fist-sized servings of arancini.

The well-to-do of yesteryear clearly made sure to stop off at Taormina during their Grand Tour for a reason. Although you won’t necessarily end up the protagonist of a romantic thriller during your stay, you’ll nevertheless find yourself seduced – and possibly inspired.

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What to Pack

Carpazi shirt (US$1,160) by The Row at Net-a-Porter.

Midi skirt (US$1,110) by Dolce & Gabbana at Mytheresa.

Aquazzura Tequila sandals (US$925).

Buccellati Rombi earrings (US$21,700).